Slot mods

slot mods

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Gilbert Auto-Rama slot car set display packaging Cheater - Nov 09 Happy birthday to the oldest raceway owner! I have since seen oxygen valves available separately at some hardware stores and probably from various tool catalogs.

I was able to get some more small flame tips S from Microflame recently, but I don't know if they still have any adaptor hose sets available.

I let the fuel gas burn to keep it lit during a soldering session. Also I remove the valve from the oxygen tank if I won't be using the torch for more then a day or two, to prevent slow leaks.

I mounted the torch parts, with hose claps and a bracket, on a box with casters with a cake tin on top, so I can store all my soldering tools and supplies in a handy, somewhat mobile, carrier.

I got the press assembly at some Train Show, but I can't recall where, or who made it. I found a short plastic tube to adapt the rotary tool to the press and then used tie-wraps to fix the cord.

The press parts needed a lot of filing and cleanup to get it operating smoothly. A little 'L' hook hangs the accessories. This little tool is great for drilling all those.

I added the Micro-Mark 'Accuriser' upgrade kit no longer available , the blank blade plates , 40 tooth carbide, and extra-fine steel, blades. Check out Micro-Marks selection of Dremel table saw accessories.

The upgrade kit contained a strengthening bracket for the rear of the saw, a new drive belt, and a very nice precision rip fence.

In addition to installing the upgrade kit the saw needed further improvement. Ground can be attached at any common ground location. Not all mods require power, but here it is in case you need it.

The was originally designed to have two built-in speakers, and supposedly stereo sound now you know what those round vents are for in the top.

Even though that was abandoned, Rob Mitchell pointed out to me that you can separate out the two audio channels on TIA pins 12 and 13, and get "stereo" audio although originally games weren't designed to take advantage of this, some recent homebrew carts like SynthCart and Skeleton do.

However, for the scratch-built mods, this involves bending up those two pins on the TIA and soldering directly to them, which isn't something I wanted to do, so I just went with mono audio, which was easier.

The CyberTech mod has stereo audio by default. The most direct way to make an audio mod is to connect the Audio point shown in the above pictures to the center pin of an RCA connector, and then connect the 's ground to the RCA's outer sleeve.

Alternately, you could just build the audio portion of the CD mod , which is the same thing, with the addition of a capacitor as a filter.

RF looks terrible on some games, not as bad on others. RF through an adapter looks a little better than with a switchbox.

The noise that a switchbox picks up can be terrible, although some contact cleaner can help. Composite video, whether through an adapter or straight from a mod, suffers from dot crawl - fuzzy edges along some horizontal areas of the picture.

Depending on how good your TV is, you may or may not be bothered by it. The only way around this is by using S-Video.

S-Video looks best, by far. The images are crisp and there's very little color bleeding. There's no dot crawl, and the images have clarity rivaling that of a computer.

If the video signal is unstable, a VCR can stabilize the signal enough for the monitor to achieve proper sync. If you build a mod and it doesn't seem to be working, try running it through a VCR.

The picture below shows the setup I used for testing with the six-switch The circuit board is resting on top of the metal shield that's usually enclosing it.

I put a foam pad under the board, so nothing would short. This allowed me to work on everything "right-side-up".

Somewhere in there, is an Atari In order to not damage my I didn't solder anything to the circuit board. Rather, I used little copper clips available from Radio Shack to hook onto the ends of resistors.

If you're building a mod for a permanent installation, you'll need to solder instead. But this is a good way to test everything before committing to it.

The blue stuff is electrical tape, to keep the clips from contacting each other. When permanently installing a mod, I'd suggest soldering to the resistor leads, instead of trying to solder directly to the TIA socket pins on the bottom of the board.

For one thing, there's less chance of damaging the TIA, but perhaps more important - It's makes soldering easier, since you can hook the wires around the resistor leads before soldering them on.

Since these are directly connected to the TIA pins, it makes no difference where you make the connection. To speed up testing, I used a terminal strip to attach all of the necessary leads from the Atari Then, I could just hook up each mod to the terminals, without having to connect new clips to the circuit board.

That's the S-Video connector on top. Composite video and audio are below it. The mods were tested with S-Video, if it worked.

If not, composite video was used. As a reference, RF was also tested, since this is how the Atari was designed to output signals.

The first round of tests for this site were composite-only, because I couldn't get S-Video to work at the time. Since then, I've gotten it to work thanks to a little help from Rob Mitchell, and all current results reflect this.

Chris Cracknell's mod and Ben Heckendorn's mod were also run through the S-VHS deck using composite in and out , since the signal was too weak without it to get a stable signal.

This depends largely on how forgiving your TV or video monitor is with unstable signals, so you may not require a VCR. First, I let the system being tested warm up.

I've found that the colors shift after awhile, if the unit has been left off. Then, I used the Color Bar Generator's title screen to calibrate the color using the big potentiometer on the main board - basing the adjustments on the instructions for that cart which can be viewed at AtariAge.

An adjustment potentiometer is placed on the VCS console circuit board to adjust the degree delay so that it is the same as 0 degrees.

Although we do not recommend that you void any warranty on your game console, the potentiometer the only one can be adjusted so that the top half of the colored box is as close to the same color as the bottom half.

The color generation circuits can then correctly produce colors from 0 to degrees. When adjusting this potentiometer, use a small screwdriver in the center.

It's easier to make fine adjustments than if you just grabbed it with your fingers. You can also adjust these through the hole located on the bottom side of the board.

I figured this would give the best idea of which video mod was interpreting the color signals most accurately.

That way, I'm testing how each mod works, rather than using the to compensate for each mod, or adjusting the video monitor until it looks good.

Ben's mod required some additional back-and-forth adjustments, since his mod uses two potentiometers for adjustment. The CyberTech mod allows for adjustment of the picture, but it isn't required to get it to work.

This is about the equivalent of digitizing using a DV converter, except it has better image quality than a consumer setup. I then did a direct FireWire transfer of the video into Final Cut Pro, so there was no signal loss from the digital tape.

Even though DV does use compression for video, there were no noticeable artifacts from the compression present in any of these tests, since there was very little movement happening onscreen.

Below are the carts I tested, listing the still frames I've taken from the captured video. They've been left at x, and interlaced, so it looks the way it does on an NTSC monitor.

I've made notes of why I chose these particular screens for comparison. However, I felt some of them were poor examples or redundant, so I opted for these instead.

This should give a good enough cross section to show the differences in image quality under various conditions. Depending on your particular TV or video monitor, you may have better or worse results.

Some monitors are more forgiving with unstable video signals than others. For a couple of the mods, I had to run them through a VCR to stabilize the signal.

There's some ghosting on the images which appear as faint double images to the left or right , but all of the video mods and RF output exhibit this, and it's more likely something to do with the TIA itself, than something that can be eliminated.

It's less noticeable on an NTSC monitor than it is in these screen captures. The video driver - For the life of me, I couldn't get it to work on either or my I tried various connection points on the s and , double-checked the diagram, and even changed the circuit once to account for a possible ambiguity in the diagram.

I'd be very interested in hearing from anyone who has gotten this to work, and could shed some light on the matter. Chris Cracknell's mod - This is where everything is crunched together with no additional components.

Without running it through a VCR, most games would start up very bright, then rapidly fade to almost nothing within seconds.

On other games, the brightness fluctuated a lot, and the image was very unstable. Running it through a VCR helped, but some games lacked color, others had large areas of color flaring across the screen, and nothing was really what I would call acceptable.

RF video - The default video of the , which you've been looking at for over 20 years. It doesn't look too bad, until you have something better to compare it with - then you start seeing how awful it really is.

Indistinct shapes, soft edges, dull colors, and plenty of noise mar the picture.

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Slot Mods Video

Slot Mods USA - Cloverleaf Raceway The mods were tested with S-Video, if it worked. Composite video and audio are below it. Forum for information and tutorials on using this 888 casino bonus code ohne einzahlung, as well as questions slot mods answers. The CyberTech mod allows for adjustment of the picture, but it isn't required to get it to work. The press parts needed a lot of filing and cleanup to get it operating smoothly. For my money, the CyberTech mod won out, although if I were on a tight budget, I would secret de test Jewel Box -kolikkopeli on täynnä aarteita Casumolla been just fine with Beste Spielothek in Dreilach finden Heckendorn's. Ben Heckendorn's mod can probably be built by anyone with even minimal soldering skills. They're listed approximately in order of increasing image quality, from least to highest. Rather, I used little copper clips available from Radio Shack to hook onto the ends of resistors. To each his own Forum for discussion online games 3d full-size racing, automobiles, motorcycles, boats, airplanes, trains, etc.

I added test results for an adjusted CyberTech mod. Turns out the saturation was turned up too high. While this may not cause everyone a problem, it did on my TV, which I've detailed on this page.

I'm also working at getting a modded from povlok1, and a Jr. Finally, I've added a page detailing my favorite joystick modification.

Check it out - I think it works great! Added more pictures as if the page didn't take long enough to load before , added CyberTech video mod info, added thumbnails for all screen captures and added more hopefully useful links.

Removed references to the , since I've decided to limit the scope of this page to the Created a logo for the page. Sorry, T-shirts are not available.

This site has been set up for the sake of comparing the various video modifications that have been created for the Atari Whether that means just building them from schematics, or getting them in the form of a kit, the idea is to give people an idea of what's involved with them, and more to the point, how well each of them works.

Originally, I was hoping to create the elusive "how-to" guide, but that's really not practical. If you can solder and have a basic understanding of electronics, you can install one of these yourself.

At the very least, you need to know how to solder. If you don't, you can usually find some tips online. You can get by with a pretty cheap, low-watt soldering iron from Radio Shack.

Just be sure to practice on something you can live without, before going to work on your I'm not trying to put down any of the people who have developed these mods.

Some work better than others, some will suit some people's needs better than others. All of these mods are available online either as plans or for purchase.

I haven't developed any of the mods on this site - they were all invented by other people. I'm just testing them out as impartially as possible.

Finding the parts for these may or may not be easy. Radio Shack carries precious few electronic components anymore. I ordered most of the components for the video driver and CD mods through Nationwide Electronics, Inc.

The circuit boards, terminals and connectors all came from Radio Shack. All parts for Ben Heckendorn's mod came from Radio Shack, so that's a plus.

Electronix Express and Digi-Key also carry most of this stuff, although NEI was the only place that had the transistor used in the video driver mod.

For wiring, I used some spare category 5 cable very easy stuff to work with. The CyberTech mod is available through Atari You can purchase a kit to install yourself, or pay them to do it.

I have no idea what the shipping costs for sending a back and forth would be. There are no online plans to build one of these yourself, and given the complexity of it, there are probably few who would want to make the attempt.

All of the rest of the carts are from my own collection. Some of the games were chosen based on feedback in the AtariAge Hardware forum.

All of these mods are tested using NTSC consoles and video equipment. I don't have the facilities available to test any PAL consoles or games. I've tested the following video mods on both a six-switch and four-switch Atari some of these are listed in the Atari FAQ.

The Atari used for the screen captures is the six-switch model it's actually a Sears Video Arcade, but it's always been "an Atari" to me.

I didn't test any mods in an Atari jr. With the exception of the CyberTech mod which comes pre-built , I built these based on plans freely available on the internet.

The video driver mod: For this mod, I removed the CD left , and used jumpers to bypass the connections right. The Atari was originally designed to output an RF modulated signal.

That means the audio and video signals were combined into one signal that could be transmitted to a specific channel on a standard TV set usually channel 2 or 3.

This allowed the to be hooked up to any TV set at the time, but generated visible noise in the picture. To show the difference between RF and the video mods, I also ran tests using RF through a standard switchbox and a straight adapter similar to what AtariAge sells.

The dreaded switch box. If you can't dump it, blast some contact cleaner in the switch. Radio Shack even sells a remote-controlled switch, if you feel like spending that much.

It didn't make any apparent difference, but your mileage may vary, depending on the condition of your original cable. You'll need an adapter like the one on the right to plug into the 's built-in RF modulator, but you'll need to file the center post down, since the original cable's is so much shorter.

If you don't file the post down to match the plug on the left, the adapter won't fit the 's jack. I also tested two S-video to composite adapters, for those who don't have an S-video input handy.

There are also instructions on this page , for making your own adapter although I haven't tested it, the principle is the same as the store-bought adapters.

Something else you may want, is an RCA "Y" adapter. Most of the mods just have one channel of audio. If you're running it into a stereo TV, and want sound to come out of both channels, you'll need one of these although the sound will still be mono.

If you get the CyberTech S-Video mod, you may also want to pick up some female to female couplers. The cables included with that mod are very short, and these allow you to connect to longer cables.

Finally, if you need a something to switch between different game consoles, I highly recommend Pelican's System Selector.

Pelican's System Selector - front and back. Except for the CyberTech mod, the better they work, the harder they are to build although I'm sure Chris Wilkson worked hard enough designing the CyberTech mod.

Ben Heckendorn's mod can probably be built by anyone with even minimal soldering skills. Tackling the CD mod is going to tax your patience, unless you really, really, like to solder.

Hand-wiring one of these is pretty tedious, and not for beginners. It's not really that complex of a circuit - but if you don't have experience with soldering, it's going to be frustrating.

I'm not going to describe how to get an Atari apart. If you can't get that far on your own, a video mod is probably not a good idea.

The CyberTech mod comes with detailed instructions, but be sure to read them carefully - it's easy to overlook steps. There are schematics for each scratch-built mod available at the links above.

If you decide to build a CD mod, there's a diagram of S-Video pin-outs available here. For the CyberTech mod, it uses an intermediate socket to pull the signals off the TIA chip, so you don't have to solder anything to the itself.

It also includes the necessary cables and wiring information. I've detailed my experience with the CyberTech mod on this page. Alternately, you can pay extra to have Atari This shows the layout of a six-switch board, and where to find the various connection points.

The TIA is the large, socketed chip at the bottom. Forum for discussion of slot car bodies, painting, and other body-related topics in all scales.

Forum for discussion regarding all slot car controllers, resistor or electronic, current or vintage. Forum for raceway and vendor ads.

Banner advertisers may place one ad per week. Ads do not appear until approved. Forum where individual racers are invited to place ads to trade, sell, or buy slot car items.

Read first post regarding ad fee. This is a temporary forum to put all of Tom's fabulous cars in one place so as not to monopolize the Racer Swap Shop.

Forum for discussion of any and all non-slot model cars and toys: Forum for discussion of full-size racing, automobiles, motorcycles, boats, airplanes, trains, etc.

Diary of the mad old car nut as he drives a newly-purchased Model A Ford Tudor sedan over 2, miles to its new home.

Community Forum Software by IP. Search Advanced Search section: Javascript Disabled Detected You currently have javascript disabled.

Forum Forum for club activities and events. Tom 'tjsguns' Scott collection This is a temporary forum to put all of Tom's fabulous cars in one place so as not to monopolize the Racer Swap Shop.

The upgrade kit contained a strengthening bracket for the rear of the saw, a new drive belt, and a very nice precision rip fence.

In addition to installing the upgrade kit the saw needed further improvement. The surface of my table saw wasn't very flat, compared with my Sears 10" ground cast iron surface.

By attaching a large sheet of med-fine sandpaper to the Sears saw surface and rubbing the upside down Dremel's surface on it, you can see the high spots and slowly true up the hard plastic surface.

You could make one out of acrylic or brass. It makes a lot of difference when operating the saw! Then I added some brackets to store the saw accessories conveniently.

I made my own sliding table for the saw out of acrylic, but now I see that you can get one from Micro-Mark , theirs is bigger but less versatile.

I recently added a sliding stop for quick and easy setup of crosscut jobs. Double stick tape on the bottom of a small blocks of acrylic makes a great cutting jigs for repeatable cuts on odd shapes.

Another useful accessory for the table saw is an acrylic push stick to keep your fingers away from the blade while cutting. I built this from a discarded drawer, a cut down picture frame and a piece of glass for the top , PVC fittings, a sloped styrene sub-floor, respirator filters, and various hardware fittings.

There is a capped fitting at the bottom of the sloped floor to remove used grit. This tool could be seen as a bit overbuilt, but then sometimes projects take on a life of their own!

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